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Attached files glowbugs digests 16 through 20



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       GLOWBUGS Digest 16

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Soldering Book
 by "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
  2) Re: Soldering Book
 by "Deane D McIntyre"  <dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca>
  3) Simple XMTR's using 6T9 tubes
 by "Deane D McIntyre"  <dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca>
  4) Re: Simple XMTR's using 6T9 tubes
 by "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
  5) Regen Recvr Feedback Control
 by EricNess@aol.com
  6) Re: Regen Recvr Feedback Control
 by Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
  7) tube needed
 by Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
  8) Re: tube needed
 by artdeco@bway.net
  9) GOODIES FOR GRABS III RESULTS
 by David Stinson <72227.1640@compuserve.com>
 10) Xmt'g Tube Manual
 by Jeffrey Herman <jherman@hawaii.edu>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Nov 1995 22:38:01 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
To: GLOWBUGS <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Soldering Book
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.951111221136.5986B-100000@clark.net>


I picked up a great book on soldering, SOLDERING ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS,
NASA SP-5002, at the Government Printing Office store in Washington a few
years back.  It is THE most complete short work on the subject I've seen
anywhere.  Topics covered are hand soldering (32 pages), automatic machine
soldering (2 pages), termination of shields by soldering (3 pages), lacing
of cable trunks (6 pages), solder characteristics (2 pages), and solder
cracking problems (13 pages). 

I thought I was pretty good at soldering and until I saw this.  I didn't 
know anything about soldering!  ;-)

Anyway, this is a 1967 publication and I've had it a long time, so I don't 
know if this is still available.  I have a message out to our friend 
Larry Mills at NTIS, but I haven't heard back from him.  I'll also check 
with the GPO bookstore the next time I cross the Potomac.  Of course we 
can have Kinkos make some up if there's enough interest.

Stay tuned...

73,
Tony
K4KYO


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Nov 1995 21:27:28 -0700
>From: "Deane D McIntyre"  <dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Book
Message-ID: <9511120427.AA43596@ds1.acs.ucalgary.ca>

In message <Pine.SOL.3.91.951111221136.5986B-100000@clark.net>  writes:
> 
> I picked up a great book on soldering, SOLDERING ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS,
> NASA SP-5002, at the Government Printing Office store in Washington a few
> years back.  It is THE most complete short work on the subject I've seen
> anywhere. 
(Much Deleted)

Another good book on this subject is Solder....its fundamentals and
usage, by Clifford L Barber, published by the Kester Solder Company.
My edition, the second, was published in 1961. I have no idea as to
if Kester has a more recent edition available. This 84 page book
covers solder, solderinf fluxes, and soldering methods in detail.
It has a short chapter on soldering the new printed circuit boards,
including the new wave soldering technology......


73, Deane D McIntyre VE6BPO
dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Nov 1995 21:54:02 -0700
>From: "Deane D McIntyre"  <dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Simple XMTR's using 6T9 tubes
Message-ID: <9511120454.AA27698@ds1.acs.ucalgary.ca>

Gang:

A couple of week ago Jeff, NH6IL asked if anyone had built the 6T9
rig that was featured in the early 1970's ARRL handbook. The 6T9
is a 12-pin Compactron tube containing a low mu triode and a pentode.
The orginal purpose of this tube, if my memory is correct, was to serve
as a combined audio driver/audio output stage in television sets, or
as a compined vertical osc/vertical output stage. However, I have never
seen a television set that used a 6T9.

The Handbook 6T9 rig Jeff mentioned is a 10 watt xmtr, using the triode
section as an xtal controlled oscillator driving the pentode output
stage. I do not have the article in front of me, but I believe that 
this xmtr was primarily intended for 80/40 operation, however the possibility
of operation on 160 or 40 was pointed out. Anyhow, the good news is
that 6T9's are cheap, only oabout $2 or so NIB from Antique Electronic
supply. I ordered a couple, and they arrived a few weeks ago.

Today, I came across a 1969 Handbook, and they have a circuit for
a 15 watt CW/AM 160 metre rig that uses two 6T9's and a 12AT7. As in
the rig discussed above, one 6T9 serves as the xtal contolled oscillator/
output stage. The 12AT7 is a speech amplifier, which feeds the triode
section of the second 6T9, ehich in turn feeds the modulator 6T9
pentode section. As 6T9's are so cheap this sounds like an interesting
project. I am sure that it would run on 80/40 as well. Has anyone built
this beast? Plate voltage required was 275, about right for an old TV
power transformer based supply....

73, Deane D McIntyre VE6BPO
dmcintyr@acs.ucalgary.ca



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 01:32:19 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
To: Multiple recipients of list <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: Simple XMTR's using 6T9 tubes
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.951112010043.8425A-100000@clark.net>



On Sat, 11 Nov 1995, Deane D McIntyre wrote:

> The Handbook 6T9 rig Jeff mentioned is a 10 watt xmtr, using the triode
> section as an xtal controlled oscillator driving the pentode output stage.
> I do not have the article in front of me, but I believe that this xmtr was
> primarily intended for 80/40 operation, however the possibility of
> operation on 160 or 40 was pointed out. Anyhow, the good news is that
> 6T9's are cheap, only oabout $2 or so NIB from Antique Electronic supply.
> I ordered a couple, and they arrived a few weeks ago. 
>
> Today, I came across a 1969 Handbook, and they have a circuit for
> a 15 watt CW/AM 160 metre rig that uses two 6T9's and a 12AT7. As in
> the rig discussed above, one 6T9 serves as the xtal contolled oscillator/
> output stage. The 12AT7 is a speech amplifier, which feeds the triode
> section of the second 6T9, ehich in turn feeds the modulator 6T9
> pentode section. As 6T9's are so cheap this sounds like an interesting
> project. I am sure that it would run on 80/40 as well. Has anyone built
> this beast? Plate voltage required was 275, about right for an old TV
> power transformer based supply....

I have both of the articles in front of me and RF section in the the
single-band, 160 meter rig in the 1969 ARRL handbook is almost identical
to the 160-20 meter (it uses plug-in coils) CW rig Jeff mentioned.  It
looks like adding the 160 only rig's modulator would be a piece of cake. 

As it the 6T9 only draws 80 ma. plate current, the little rig could
probably be powered by some receiver's power supplies. 

73,
Tony
K4KYO

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 02:22:14 -0500
>From: EricNess@aol.com
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Regen Recvr Feedback Control
Message-ID: <951112022214_104308609@emout05.mail.aol.com>

Greetings GlowBugs,

I'm new to this list so please forgive me if I cover old material.  

I am in the process of building the "Red-Hot Radio" described in Sept. 95 CQ
mag.  The circuit is a very familiar one except for the feedback control.
 The feedback in this circuit is controlled by a 1K pot placed in parallel
with the tickler winding.  At this time I can't comment on how well the
circuit works since I still have a few holes to drill before I can start
wiring.

This brings up my question. What is the best way to control the feedback in
an Armstrong style regen receiver?  I am most familar with the plate voltage
technique but I have seen schematics using screen grid control, throttle
caps, and varimeter (sp?) coils.  Any comments?

Eric, WD6DGX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 09:47:44 -0600 (CST)
>From: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
To: EricNess@aol.com
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: Regen Recvr Feedback Control
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951112094455.6131B-100000@admin.aurora.edu>

On Sun, 12 Nov 1995 EricNess@aol.com wrote:

> Greetings GlowBugs,
> 
  snip
> 
> This brings up my question. What is the best way to control the feedback in
> an Armstrong style regen receiver?  I am most familar with the plate voltage
> technique but I have seen schematics using screen grid control, throttle
> caps, and varimeter (sp?) coils.  Any comments?
> 
Hi Eric -I have a problem with the idea of using a pot in an RF circuit
like that. I have not seen the article you mention but I have heard of
using a pot across the tickler winding. I prefer a pot to vary the DC
voltage, or the throttle condenser method.
73 de Bob, K9EUI


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 11:20:40 -0600 (CST)
>From: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
To: Boatanchors <boatanchors@theporch.com>, glowbugs <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: tube needed
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951112111756.15092D-100000@admin.aurora.edu>


I am looking for a type 1232 tube. This is a loktal type used in the
front end of a Zenith console I am restoring. I am unaware of any
equivalents, if there are any.

Thanks & 73 de Bob, K9EUI  (broehrig@admin.aurora.edu)


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 15:58:58 -0500 (EST)
>From: artdeco@bway.net
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Re: tube needed
Message-ID: <199511122058.PAA21359@nico.bway.net>

Bob Roehrig wrote:

>I am looking for a type 1232 tube. This is a loktal type used in the
>front end of a Zenith console I am restoring. I am unaware of any
>equivalents, if there are any.

The 1232 is available from Antique Electronic Supply, 6221 S. Maple
St.,Tempe Arizona 85283,  for $4.30. Their catalog does not list any other
tube as a possible substitute. Phone number is 602-820-5411. Request their
catalog if you don't already have one... it's full of goodies for restoring
old radios.

Carl Ratner
artdeco@bway.net


------------------------------

Date: 12 Nov 95 17:33:24 EST
>From: David Stinson <72227.1640@compuserve.com>
To: mailing list <boatanchors@theporch.com>,
Subject: GOODIES FOR GRABS III RESULTS
Message-ID: <951112223323_72227.1640_EHM173-7@CompuServe.COM>

Stephanie has done the dirty name-drawing deed in 
Goodies for Grabs III.  Since you can't blame me, and
no one here is so crude as to cuss-out a little 9-year-old
girl, I feel mighty safe...(dodging tomato).

Here are the lucky new owners of all these teenie treasures
(or trivial trash, depending on your personal tastes).
Anything unclaimed goes GFG IV.

If you're on the list, email me your mailing address, even if
you've written before.  It helps with my archiving. Return of
postage is requested.  If you'd like to return-mail a BC-610 
or something, it would be pretty cool but isn't neccessary.

Collins-Made and Marked Tube Shields:
Roy Morgan

Collins KWM-2/51S1 power-volume control knob:
Jeff Anderson

Collins/Heath 9-11 pin plugs.  One set each go to:
Greg Wasik
Mike KB9VU@aol.com

Drake AC-4 female Cinch-Jones connector. One each to:
RF Buchanan
Greg Parsons 

NIB Tubes:
(2) 866As:  Jon Schumacher
(5) 6AK5, (4) 6DK6: Jerry Dries
(1) 43:  Stan Gilstrap

Bird 43 Wattmeter Slugs ( found another):
Mike n1ist@netcom.com
Bill Smith AB6MT

NOS Replacement electrolytics.
WARNING: REFORM BEFORE USE!!!
Three lots went to:
Hal Waite
Wai Kei Leung
Phil Mills, AB5TH

Drake W4 wattmeter manual with cards:
Jack Giehl WB8BFS

Astatic Model 331 Mobile Mike:
Don Merz N3RHT

Twenty non-ham freq FT-243 crystals
One each of two lots:
Eric Ness, WD6DGX
Ken Harrison

DM-64 Dynamotor with base:
Pasquale Lombardi

That's it for this time!  Please email me your addr so I can 
shoot you the goodies; return postage requested.
If you missed-out, don't worry.  I'm constantly finding this stuff
so GFG IV is only a few months away.

73 DE Dave Stinson AB5S/7
72227.1640@compuserve.com




------------------------------

Date:  Sun, 12 Nov 1995 14:00:38 -1000
>From: Jeffrey Herman <jherman@hawaii.edu>
To: Glowbugs List <glowbugs@theporch.com>,
Subject: Xmt'g Tube Manual
Message-ID: <Pine.SV4.3.91.951112135604.9325A-100000@uhunix3>

Where could I get a copy of an (RCA?) transmitting tube manual, including
a substitution index? Anyone have a copy for sale?

My 1991 ARRL Handbook doesn't have much in the way of a tube reference
guide. My '95 edition has even less data. My '72 edition is 2500 miles
away.

Jeff NH6IL

------------------------------

End of GLOWBUGS Digest 16
*************************



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       GLOWBUGS Digest 17

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Xmt'g Tube Manual
 by "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
  2) Zenith's 1232 tube
 by "Blake Dietze" <blake.dietze@telops.gte.com>
  3) 6AG7s and more...
 by mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
  4) re:Regen Rcvr Feedback Control
 by UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
  5) Re: 6AG7s and more...
 by af852@rgfn.epcc.Edu (William R Colbert)
  6) correction! re:regen rcvrs...
 by UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
  7) Re: 6AG7s and more...
 by Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
  8) Re: 6AG7s and more...
 by mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Nov 1995 19:48:06 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
To: Jeffrey Herman <jherman@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Re: Xmt'g Tube Manual
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.951112194431.3083F-100000@clark.net>

Hi Jeff,

Antique Electronic Supply lists a reprint of the RCA Transmitting Tube 
Manual TT-5, 316 pages, their stock number B-676, for $12.95.  
602-820-5411 (no toll free number except for fax - 800-706-6789)

Good luck & 73,
Tony
K4KYO
-------------------------------
On Sun, 12 Nov 1995, Jeffrey Herman wrote:

> Where could I get a copy of an (RCA?) transmitting tube manual, including
> a substitution index? Anyone have a copy for sale?
> 
> My 1991 ARRL Handbook doesn't have much in the way of a tube reference
> guide. My '95 edition has even less data. My '72 edition is 2500 miles
> away.
> 
> Jeff NH6IL
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 8:24:34 CST
>From: "Blake Dietze" <blake.dietze@telops.gte.com>
To: <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Zenith's 1232 tube
Message-ID: <vines.Cuk8+XIpdkA@squid.thq.tx.gte.com>

The 1232 tube which Zenith (and others) used in the early 1940's may be 
substituted 
with a common 7G7 octal. I concur with Mr Ratner, The Antique Electronic 
Supply Catalog is a worthwhile addition to your reference materials. 


The following was included as an attachement.  Please use UUDECODE
to retrieve it.  The original file name was 'ATTRIBS.BND'.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 12:08:07 -0800
>From: mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <199511132008.MAA07138@ix4.ix.netcom.com>

I happened to see a message over on AOL where somebody is selling NOS 
6AG7s for $3 each, or 10 for $25.  For those who don't know this tube, 
it's an early video driver tube (octal) which apparently is the ideal 
oscillator tube, and was the main tube used for this job for maybe 
twenty years in amateur designs.  The normal price for these seems to 
be about $6, so this is a good deal (I've already ordered mine).  Build 
up a 6AG7 - 6L6 rig and you've got an instant classic.

It turns out that the "somebody" selling the tubes is Pat Bunn of 624 
Kits, and he mentioned that he's considering putting together some tube 
kits if there's enough interest, so if any of you have some ideas you 
may want to bend his ear.  His e-mail address is PBUNN624@aol.com, and 
his phone number is 803-583-1304.

73,
Mike, KK6GM


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 14:51:26 PST
>From: UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Cc: jfw121@duke.usask.ca
Subject: re:Regen Rcvr Feedback Control
Message-ID: <ECS9511131426A@mail.usask.ca>

I built a number of regenerative receivers in the last several years, some from v
ery 
old Radio News publications, others from my own creation. A well built regen rcvr
 
is quite stable and should approach the sensitivity of a superhet. The secret is 
to 
use low loss coils. The best approach considering cost, would be to use the 
thickest wire for the job, and wind it on a coilform that has ridges on it, or pe
rhaps 
an open air coilform with support being a few strips of plastic holding the thing
 
together. These forms are either easy or hard to find, depending where you look. 
I 
was able to find alot of these forms, both 4pin and 5pin while visiting Vancouver
 to 
some radio-electronic shop up on West Broadway about 5 years ago. Haven't run 
across any since. If you have some great, because once the coils are built for 
whatever frequencies you wish they can be reused in any other radio you happen 
to build. For stability, once you have tested the coils and they are to your 
satisfaction, ie: the radio works hot-damn, sparingly GLUE the coil onto the form
 
with a dabs of  speaker cement or what have you, and let dry. You don't want to 
change characteristics as you plug and unplug the coils!
Second point in the homebrew construction is to use a metal chassis. Forget about
 
the glorious breadboard creations with mother's crusty breadboard, unless you buy
 
 a nice 6 x 10 piece of the finest oak you can find and have it prepared to the 
glossiest finish you can get. I have built a couple of these using a real bakelit
e 
panel, but everytime you bring your hand to a circuit that's tettering on the bri
nk of 
instability, you either go into annoying regeneration or else you lose your selec
ted 
frequency because of body capacitance.(Actually, some very old commercial radios 

from the 1920's had a stick about 6-8" connected to the tuning knob so that the 
user didn't have the aforementioned problem.)  It looks very nice for your projec
t 
display case, but not very practical. Stick with a metal chassis, you can always 

slap on a bakelite front panel when everything works and you won't have the nasty
 
capacitance to annoy you.
Point Three: Use a bus between the ground connection on the coil and the ground 
connection (cathode) on the tube socket (we are using tubes I hope!). This will n
ow 
be the 'common grounding point'. Every single ground connection including a 
ground wire from the chassis mounted tuning capacitor will have a lead going to 
this grounding point. Your "B-" plate supply voltage will also make a connection 

here, as will the ground binding post for your outside ground. This ensures that 

there will be no ground loop. The chassis will be grounded from the variable 
capacitor bolted to the chassis, and will not be used for a convenient path to 
ground. These three points are necessary for the stability of a ,by nature, unsta
ble 
circuit. Once the receiver is stable, it's ease of operation and user enjoyment 
become apparent. 
Now, on with the tubes: What tube to use? Well, if you are building a set and you
 
would like to replicate the looks or performance of a 1920's type regen receiver,
 
there are a number of triode tubes that you could use for both the regenerative 
detector and the following stage[s] of audio amplification. Technically, you coul
d 
use *any* triode with varying degrees of success as long as the plate and filamen
t 
voltages are right, but the tried and true consists of these:

 uv201,uv201a,ux201,ux201a,cx201a,'01a,'01b,'01c, ux112,12,ux112
 -these need 5 volts for the filament using either 6volts and a rheostat, or 
else build yourself a solidstate 5volt powersupply like the type used for logic 
circuits. The negative side of the +/- powersupply could be used for grid bias wh
en 
your plate voltage exceeds 67 volts for the audio amplifier, when using these 
tubes. They will work in both the rf and af circuit. The tubes without the 'a' dr
aw 
about 1 amp at the rated voltage, but they sure throw a pretty light to dine by. 
The 
tubes ending with 'a' draw 1/4 amp each, and the tubes with a 'b' and 'c' draw 1/
8 
and 1/16 amp repectively at the rated voltage which is great for portable battery
 
use, but you can't tell what tubes are lit except in pitch darkness.
There are other tubes specifically designed for portable battery use in this era 
such 
as wd11 for 1.5 volts and others, but they are rare, costly, filaments aren't rob
ust, 
and generally don't work as good as these tubes mentioned. (note: If you have a 
wd11 with a good filament, I would gladly trade for a ux201a to make my radiola 
play like original again! Will also accept ux199's for trade or sale...)
Here are the later tubes circa early 1930's, which were designed for battery use 

and have very low filament current. 
- ux230, '30, 30 for both rf and af. 
 4 pin tubes use 2volts filament (rheostat and 3volts) . A similar tube with 
same characteristics as this one is the 1H4 with 8 pin octal base.

- ux231,'31,31 for af output, 4pin tube uses 2volts filament.
- 19.  this tube is a dual triode, ie. 2tubes in one shell, 6pins, 2 volts.
 With this tube, you only need one tube for a 2 tube set. Many circuits 
 built using this tube...
Several 1.5 tubes fit in this category such as 1G4, and other 8 pin tubes.
For best performance, I found that I would want to steer away from triodes 
altogether, and use pentodes. These are the oldtimer's equivalent to FET's used 
today. This means that they have higher input impedances than triodes, making 
them less of a short across the coil therby improving the Q of the coil, thus mak
ing 
the tuning sharper than with a triode in the same circuit. Other advantages are t
hat 
the output of the tube is isolated from the input of the tube capacitance wise 
because of the screen grid being at ground potential, is inbetween the grid and 
plate. This adds to the stability of the circuit among other advantages beyond th
e 
scope of  this reply. Thirdly, a pentode tube has greater gain than a triode . As
 a 
result the output is greater, and the feedback can be less, or, can be more loose
ly 
coupled to the input,leaving the Q of the coil higher than in a triode circuit. F
ourthly, 
a pentode is WAY easier to control than a triode when tettering on the brink of 
regeneration.
What are the choice methods of control? In a triode circuit, you can control 
feedback using from best to worst, capacitance from feedback loop (tickler) to 
ground. Have the capacitor's rotor or frame at ground potential so body capacitan
ce 
doesn't figure into the equation. Use a metal front panel. Next best, use a varia
ble 
tickler coil rotating inside the main coil. Lots of commercial radios of the 1920
's 
used this method probably because it was cheaper than including extra  tuning 
capacitors. You can vary feedback by changing tube characteristics by varying 
either the plate or filament voltage. The downside of varying plate voltage is th
at 
you will want maximum efficiency from a triode circuit. This means you will want 
in 
the neighborhood of 45 volts on the plate for the tubes stated in the rf section.
 If 
you have less, your efficiency drops. Why then, obtain maximum efficiency for 
regeneration at less than 45 volts when you can get maximum efficiency and a 
louder signal using 45 volts and one of the previously stated methods for 
regeneration? Some very early radios using straight non-thoriated tungsten, such 

as the 1 amp variety, varied filament voltage to change the tube's characteristic
s 
thus varying feedback, but this isn't stable particularily when battery potential
 
drops and so on.
The plus side to using triodes is that the circuit is so simple you can slap one 

together while the wife is at bingo. Yes, and 2000 ohm d.c. resistance as measure
d 
on you multimeter is a must if you want to match the output impedance of these 
tubes for maximum efficiency. There are lots of them still out there. A quick 
visit to the local junque treasures store last week revealed 4 more for my 
collection at 5 bucks a crack. Bring your ohmmeter to check for continuity. Price
 
drops dramatically when all that is good are the shell and headband. Don't worry:
 
with a 2 tube triode set using 201a's and 45 volts, with a 10 foot antenna, and n
o 
ground, I am able to pick up Radio Australia around 9 or so Mhz at 9:30 pm with a
 
volume so loud that I am able to listen to it  with an old pair of Baldwin type C
 
headphones laying on the worktable. If you build a few, you soon expect a level o
f 
performance from your radios and you will tinker with minute adjustments with the
 
coils and such to replicate a known standard of performance. In my location, 
Saskatoon, this is a test of that standard.
So pentode tubes are choice. Methods of pentode control are many but the best 
from experience is using screen grid control,using whatever voltage you can get t
o 
the plate, anywhere from 90 up to 250volts, the higher the better. Have a 50k pot
 in 
series with 250k resistor of a couple watts across the plate voltage, and take th
e 
tap of the pot going to to the grid2 of the pentode. Have a .1 ufd capacitor acro
ss 
the pot arm and ground to eliminate scratch when varying voltages.
There are many forms of regeneration stated for pentodes, they all seem to work 
equally good as long as the feedback is set up for maximum regeneration when the 

screen voltage is around 30 volts. This gets maximum volume (detection) from this
 
 circuit. Properly constructed, one pentode will give roughly the same results as
 
the 2tube triode combo. One pentode for rf such as a 6sk7, 6sj7 and the like, 
coupled with a 6v6,6F6, or 6L6 will provide ample volume for a loudspeaker. I 
currently use such a homebrew rcvr using a 6v6 and 6sj7 built on a 8 x 12 chassis
 
 which slides into a wooden case complete with powersupply and speaker, on my 
nighttable. Great for listening to another country's perspectives.
Depending on the project and whether you have tools to work with metal, a receive
r 
should take a day or so to get/find parts (varies on your resources and location)
, an 
evening to place the parts on the chassis to figure out where each should be, if 

there is room for other parts, etc., then (gulp) carefully drill and punch all th
e holes 
in that 7 dollar shiny chassis., and finally mount your parts. Next day should be
 
one of connecting and soldering. You should have a radio that sort of works. Use 

the following evening to take out the bugs. This means you may have to replace or
 
remove some turns on your coil for maximum efficiency. you may have to use 
another gridleak resistor of a different value, you may want to try other tubes. 

Maybe some are newer than others? You may want to extend the testing over 
through several nights, as from experience, once the radio works better and bette
r, 
 you actually find yourself sitting back having a smoke and getting interested in
 the 
program you're listening to while testing...  When this happens,unplug the iron, 
 
you are done. 

I hope this reply answered some of your questions regarding feedback control with
 
the homebrew set you are considering to build. You will not be disappointed with 
a 
properly constructed regen set. Good Luck!!    



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 13:58:45 MST
>From: af852@rgfn.epcc.Edu (William R Colbert)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Re: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <9511132058.AA10881@rgfn.epcc.Edu>



There was also early articles using the 6ag7 in a linear amp.
I think W6BLZ (now W6XM), Ed Marriner, writing for CQ had 
one up and running in the early 50's with an output of a couple
hundred watts.  This tube is probably similar to the 5763 in
its capability and it sure would be nice to see a "new" old
kit line available.  
Ray, W5XE, El Paso, Tx

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 15:09:11 PST
>From: UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: correction! re:regen rcvrs...
Message-ID: <ECS9511131511A@mail.usask.ca>

The plus side to using triodes is that the circuit is so simple you can slap one 

together while the wife is at bingo. Yes, and 2000 ohm d.c. resistance as measure
d 
on you multimeter is a must if you want to match the output impedance of these 
tubes for maximum efficiency. There are lots of them still out there. A quick ...


There is an error here that I never picked up before I sent this. This blurb shou
ld 
have read....

You will need a 2000 ohm pair of headphones for the triode regen radio. Yes, and 

2000 ohm dc. resistance is a must, if you want to match the output impedance of 
the tubes to these headphones for maximum efficiency.... 

Sorry 'bout that folks!



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 15:54:11 -0600 (CST)
>From: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
To: William R Colbert <af852@rgfn.epcc.edu>
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951113155237.3434C-100000@admin.aurora.edu>

On Mon, 13 Nov 1995, William R Colbert wrote:

> There was also early articles using the 6ag7 in a linear amp.
> I think W6BLZ (now W6XM), Ed Marriner, writing for CQ had 
> one up and running in the early 50's with an output of a couple
> hundred watts.

Yes, I remember a 6AG7 linear using 4 tubes that ran about 200 watts.
You had to tune up real quick!  They only seemed to operate properly
if the paint started flaking off from the heat :-)

Bob, K9EUI


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 14:54:06 -0800
>From: mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Re: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <199511132254.OAA28650@ix5.ix.netcom.com>

Bob, K9EUI, wrote:

>Yes, I remember a 6AG7 linear using 4 tubes that ran about 200 watts.
>You had to tune up real quick!  They only seemed to operate properly
>if the paint started flaking off from the heat :-)

Wow, and I do mean WOW!  And these are 9 watt tubes!  Did anybody ever 
run a Novice gallon using 6AU6s? :)

Ray is correct, the 6AG7 fits in with the 5763 and 12BY7 as the 
oscillator tubes of choice for the entire post-war era.  The other two 
seem to be getting rather pricey these days.

73,
Mike, KK6GM


------------------------------

End of GLOWBUGS Digest 17
*************************

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       GLOWBUGS Digest 18

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) re:Regen Rcvr Feedback Control
 by UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
  2) regens - a couple comments
 by Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
  3) Re: regens - a couple comments
 by "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
  4) More on choke versus capacitor input filters
 by "Barry L. Ornitz" <u856010@eastman.com>
  5) 6AG7 circuits
 by af852@rgfn.epcc.Edu (William R Colbert)
  6) Re: regens - a couple comments
 by mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
  7) Re: More on choke versus capacitor input filters
 by Bill Turner <wrt@eskimo.com>
  8) 6AG7s and more...
 by Duncan Cadd <dcadd@luc.ac.be>
  9) Re: 6AG7s and more...
 by "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
 10) FS Tubes 
 by dmedley@indirect.com (David Medley)
 11) Power supplies L-C ?
 by kellymed@tmxbris.mhs.oz.au (Murray Kelly)
 12) Re: Power supplies L-C ?
 by Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 18:10:00 PST
>From: UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: re:Regen Rcvr Feedback Control
Message-ID: <ECS9511131800A@mail.usask.ca>




On Mon, 13 Nov 1995 14:35:32 -0700 (MST) James P. Rybak wrote:

> From: James P. Rybak <jrybak@mesa5.mesa.colorado.edu>
> Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 14:35:32 -0700 (MST)
> Subject: re:Regen Rcvr Feedback Control
> To: UofSstudent <jfw121@mail.usask.ca>
> 
> Dear Michael:
> 
> Your discussion on building regen rcvrs is very useful.  It has been a 
> while since I have built a regen.  Which 2 or 3-tube regen circuit do you 
> recommend for producing a reasonably sensitive and fairly fool-proof 
> rcvr?  After I get a little practice in putting these together, I will 
> tackle the more complex circuits.  Are there any old QST or Radio News 
> articles which you particularly recommend?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Jim Rybak  W0KSD
I think you were referring to my article, Jim. Yes, there are old Radio News articles 
around. The ones I have from 1923-1928, the heydey of radio, have several 
schematics each issue. They all tend to be electrically the same. In all cases, there 
is positive feedback from the plate to the grid, either from interelectrode 
capacitance,external capacitance, or by inductance. They will all oscillate, but what 
you want is stability. From experience, for triodes, varying regeneration via 
regeneration capacitor is the best bet for reasons stated in the article. The frames 
of the capacitors are at ground potential, reducing stray capacitance when you 
reach for a knob. The circuit according to Hugo Gernsback, publisher of that rag, is 
called the modified Reinhardt circuit. Other sources of interest may be the Dorle 
Radio construction series. These were originally published in the early 1930's and 
used parts salvaged from the neutrodyne and other sets five years previous. They 
offer a step by step guide to the construction of their sets, the first one being the 
famous '2 tube Dorle' with a 12000 mile range. Perhaps... Today, these 10cent 
books are being reprinted with a 95% authenticity at a somewhat inflated price 
compared to the original. Last I checked in 1991 they could be found at Lindsay's 
Books, and also at Antique Radio Supply, in Tempe,AZ.

There are a number of pentode circuits out there as well. ARRL published a 
collection of beginner projects back in the 1960's when I was still a kid. I can't 
remember the title, (maybe someone out there knows..), but I remember that there 
was a circuit featuring a 6u8 which is a pentode/triode combo. It used the pentode 
as the regen detector, and the triode as the af stage. It also ran on house current, 
using a little power transformer salvaged out of undoubtedly a $1 vtvm clunker 
found at a garage sale.
I would opt for the pentode circuits if you aren't recreating a "classic".
Unless you are using the third tube for added af amplification, usually a triode 
before the pentode output stage, Then it would appear you want an input or extra rf 
stage. There might be a few good reasons for doing this, principally so that you 
don't radiate. But hey, everything seems to radiate these days- your tv, computer, 
other hams tuning their xmittrs up and down the band, etc, . By putting in the rf amp 
stage, you have added to the complexity of both construction and operation of your 
 radio. Remember, all stages will have to track, follow each other up and down the 
band, unless you tune with 3 hands: two for the 2 tuning controls, one for 
regeneration. If you wanted to go for 3 tubes and two tuning capacitors WITHOUT 
regeneration, try the standard 3 tube superhet. This circuit would be far more stable 
because the nature of the IF difference frequency keeps the oscillator stage away 
from the input stage. A circuit like this with separate osc and ant capacitors is about 
as complex as the regen with an rf stage. Also, you can wind the coils yourself. 
You'd need at least three: ant, osc, and if input. Cheat and use a variloopstick for 
an if coil tuned to the high end of am band, and your difference frequency may be   
comparable to some superhet kits of the 1960's. Just have it shielded.

 Someone asked about variometers in the plate. Well, as any ham knows if you 
have a tuned input with a tuned output to that same frequency, due to interelectrode 
capacitance of the tube, you have oscillations. detune the plate, and oscillations 
cease. Replace the tuned input ie: the coil and the variable capacitor, with a crystal 
that the output variometer tunes across, and presto! You have a vintage 
transmitter!!  Just key the plate voltage. Those simple 1920's regen radio circuits 
never cease to amaze. Actually according to radio news (1923),in one of the 
issues, they said for fun, force the regen radio to oscillate, put a carbon telephone 
mike in the plate circuit in series with the plate battery where the headphones 
would be, and speak to your next door neighbor. A diagram was provided for the 
necessary hookups. This also was before the 1927 radio regulations came into 
effect. I'll bet radio was sure fun in those days. 

I hope this provides the answers sought.
73's!  james whiskeyjack, VE5JFW <jfw121@mail.usask.ca> 



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 19:24:21 -0600 (CST)
>From: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
To: glowbugs <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: regens - a couple comments
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951113191709.18795C-100000@admin.aurora.edu>


When I was a student at VTI I built a regen using a 6SN7 (regen stage &
audio stage). It was just for 160/80/40 meters and worked like a charm in
the dorm. I used the bed spring for an antenna and the first station I
worked using a 50 watt rig & that regen rcvr was in California on 80 CW.

I also got to thinking about years before that (sometime in the 40's) I
had a 2 tube regen put out by the local Boy Scout store. I think it used
a 1T4 and a 3V4. Anyway, it had several plug-in coils and worked really well.
Used a 90V "B" battery I think. I put it in a cardboard box and had it in the
basket on my bicycle, using a surplus 12 foot whip for an antenna. 
The set was either designed by Philmore or Meissner and was a kit. I think
my dad got more of a kick out of assembling it than I did since he had
made several BC TRF sets in the 20's.

Golly, I am just going to have to build a "new" regen again.........

73 de Bob, K9EUI


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 20:58:23 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
To: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
Subject: Re: regens - a couple comments
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.951113204533.16945A-100000@clark.net>



On Mon, 13 Nov 1995, Bob Roehrig wrote:

> I also got to thinking about years before that (sometime in the 40's) I
> had a 2 tube regen put out by the local Boy Scout store. I think it used
> a 1T4 and a 3V4. Anyway, it had several plug-in coils and worked really well.
> Used a 90V "B" battery I think.

Hi Bob,

You reminded me that Antique Electronic Supply has a reprint of the 1937
Hammarlund Short Wave Manual that has a number of (excuse me) really
neat-o project receivers including a one tube (type 30) receiver, "A Boy
Scout's Receiver" built by Scout Robert Crockett of Pelham, New York (NOT
"NY"...  New York!).  It's a great time warp book! 

73,
Tony
K4KYO



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 21:17:45 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Barry L. Ornitz" <u856010@eastman.com>
To: wrt@eskimo.com
Cc: Glowbugs Mailing List <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: More on choke versus capacitor input filters
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951113210523.26538A-100000@dua150.kpt.emn.com>

Continuing the ongoing saga of the choke input versus capacitor input 
for power supply filters, I would like to provide several additional 
arguments that might convince Bill, W7LZP, that his understanding of 
choke input filters is lacking.  My first approach will be practical 
rather than pedantic for those who do not want to get into the 
mathematics.  Once again I apologize for the length of this post.

This argument is simply that a Single Sideband Suppressed Carrier 
amplifier is no different that an AM or CW transmitter as far as power 
supply requirements go.  The current draw from the power supply will 
vary at an audio rate exactly as if the power supply were powering a 
class AB1, AB2, or B (or even a switching class D) stage.  In all of 
these cases, what is needed is a relatively constant supply voltage.  A 
properly designed choke input filter can and does meet this requirement.  
Is Bill saying that all of the older classic amateur rigs, AM and CW, 
had power supplies that supplied constant current rather than constant 
voltage?  They virtually all used choke input filters.  What about 
broadcast transmitters?  How can you argue with standard practice?

Bill appears to be confused about the energy storage in a choke.  A 
capacitor stores electric charge but an inductance stores a magnetic 
field.  Kevin Pease, WB0JZG, is correct when he says:

    We must keep in mind that inductive kickback is what inductance is 
    all about. The higher the inductance the more the kickback. The 
    choke stores a magnetic field and that energy is used to fill in 
    the 0 voltage portion of the 120 HZ Pulsating DC.

Actually the choke supplies energy from its collapsing magnetic field 
whenever the input voltage is less than the output voltage.  The 
critical inductance I discussed in the previous post is the value needed 
to maintain current flow from the transformer, through the diodes, into 
the choke for the full half cycle.

Bill seems to be confused by the properties of an inductor when used as 
a relay.  From his post:

    Barry is correct of course about cost, size and weight, but I stand 
    by my original comment about the rapidly varying current draw and 
    the "inductive kick" phenomenon.  Inductive kick is familiar to 
    anyone who has powered a relay coil from DC.  When the power is 
    removed from the coil, the stored energy in the field attempts to 
    maintain the existing current flow (which it can't) and the result 
    is a sudden voltage spike across the coil.  Nearly all designers 
    place a reversed-polarity diode across the coil to absorb the 
    spike.  

When the power is removed from the coil of a relay, its magnetic field 
collapses generating a voltage across the coil in an attempt to maintain 
the coil current.  In fact, the inductance does a damn good job of this 
- to the point of generating enough voltage across switch contacts for 
them to arc, or for the collector of a transistor to "punch through" to 
the emitter.  Placing the reversed polarity diode across the coil does 
provide a current path but there is NO spike generated when the diode is 
there.  The presence of this diode actually slows down the response of 
the relay since the coil current continues to decay after the switch is 
opened. [In the real world, the diode has a finite turn-on time so there 
may be a minuscule spike.  Diode capacitance and the distributed 
capacitance of the coil usually prevent this.]  A resistive or 
resistive-capacitive snubbing network may be used instead of the diode.
This will turn the relay off faster since the resistance provides an 
additional way for the energy in the magnetic field to be dissipated as 
heat.  With a perfect diode (no forward resistance), all of the stored 
energy in the relay's inductance will be dissipated by the coil 
resistance.  

However a power supply is quite different electrically from a switch 
turning off a relay coil.  As the input voltage to the choke drops, due 
to the collapsing magnetic field of the choke, the transformer and the 
rectifier still supply current to the choke.  If the inductance is 
greater than the critical inductance, this current will continue to flow 
over the entire half cycle.  As the next half cycle begins, the other 
rectifier in the full-wave center-tap circuit begins supplying current 
to the choke which replenishes its magnetic field.  At no point in the 
entire cycle is the current to inductance totally switched off.

[In circuits that use controlled rectifiers (SCR, Triacs, SCS, etc.), 
where the turn-on of the rectifier is delayed until partially into the 
cycle, a bypass ("commutating" or "freewheeling") diode is needed to 
supply the choke current.  This diode not only clamps the output to zero 
while the inductively maintained current flows, it also allows the 
thyristors to turn off.]

Bill postulates the following scenario:

    In a power supply, the same effect will happen if a choke is 
    supplying a constant current and the load is suddenly removed (or 
    varied, as with SSB).  The difference in a power supply is that the 
    voltage spike is absorbed by the output filter capacitor instead of 
    a diode.

Since the voltage on the capacitor cannot change instantaneously either, 
you have a LC circuit.  The damping will depend on the value of the 
output resistance.  

    My point is that if the capacitor has to be there anyway, why 
    bother with the choke?  As an illustration, imagine a power supply 
    with a very large inductance choke and little or no output 
    capacitance.  For SSB, it simply wouldn't work. The reverse 
    situation -- big capacitor and little or no choke would work fine. 
    The reason for that is that a power supply for an SSB transmitter 
    should be a constant voltage source, not a constant current source.

The capacitor must be there to provide a low reactance at the lowest 
audio frequency.  Thus the audio currents have little effect on the 
input impedance of the filter and the transformer sees only the average 
current.  The reverse situation, that of a large capacitor and no choke, 
is another extreme.  The inductance of the power transformer becomes 
important as does the resistance of the rectifiers.  As these become 
smaller, the peak current drawn by the supply becomes very high.  The 
current from the transformer occurs in very short, narrow pulses.  This 
not only creates problems with the transformer, it also creates noise 
and transients in the power line.  The capacitor has to be there, but it 
can be far, far smaller with the choke input filter.

If the standard practices do not convince Bill, and the above arguments 
do not either, perhaps the following detailed example will...

For this analysis, let us assume a full-wave center tapped transformer
with a voltage rating of 707-0-707 RMS volts on the secondary.  This gives
a peak voltage of 1000 volts.  Let us further assume a full load of 1 amp
and an idling current of 0.1 amp.  Since a choke with a value above the
critical inductance is used, the output voltage will be 0.9*1000 = 900
volts. 

The critical inductance is:   Lcrit = (900/0.1)/1000 = 9 Henry

Let us assume that the lowest audio frequency to be transmitted is 300 
Hz.  If the output capacitor impedance is no more than 10% of the total 
impedance at this frequency, we consider the response acceptable.  This 
sets the value of the output capacitor to:

          XCout = 0.1 * 900 = 90 ohms
          Cout = 1/(6.28 * 300 * 90) = 5.9 microfarad

Knowing the choke inductance and the output capacitance, we can 
calculate the ripple factor of the filter.

          r = Er/Edc     

     where Edc is DC output voltage and Er is the RMS ripple voltage.

For single phase full wave systems:

          r = (8.3E5/(Lcrit * Cout)) * (60/fs)^2 = 0.015

Since the output voltage is 0.9 * 1000 = 900 volts, the RMS ripple 
voltage is 13.5 volts.

Now let us compare what values would be needed for a capacitor only 
filter.  We can calculate the required capacitance to match the same 
ripple factor above.

          r = Sqrt(2)/(2*Pi*f*Cout*Rload)

This calculates to a value of capacitance slightly over 250 microfarads.
At this point, we have to assume something about the series resistance 
of the rectifier.  Since Bill promotes silicon diodes, a reasonable 
resistance might be 1 ohm.  The ratio of series resistance to load 
resistance is a parameter on the Schade graphs [Referenced in a previous 
post.].  In this case the parameter is 1/1000 = 0.001.  The product of 
the load resistance and the output capacitance is the other parameter.

>From the graph that gives the ratio of direct current output voltage to 
the crest of the alternating voltage as a function of the filter 
constants, the DC output voltage is:

          Vout = 0.983 * 1000 = 983 volts.

So the voltage is a little higher - but this is expected.

Now we need to calculate the diode currents.  From the other Schade 
graphs we can get:

          RMS current/DC current  (per diode) = 4
          Peak current/DC current (per diode) = 20


Since the maximum current of one diode is 1 amp/2, the RMS current for 
each diode is 2 amps.  The peak current of the same diode is 10 amps.

A diode rated for at least two amps DC should be used since the heat the 
diode must dissipate is based on its RMS current.  The diode must also 
be able to withstand 10 amps of peak current EVERY charging cycle.  
Compare this to the 0.5 amp RMS and peak current the diodes will be 
subjected to in the choke input filter.  Furthermore, the transformer 
current reflected back into the power lines with the capacitor input 
filter is as high as 120 amps peak compared to less than 6 amps with the 
choke input filter.  This 20 to 1 difference can cause some big voltage 
drops in your house wiring!  Ever wonder why the lights blink at an audio 
rate?  :-)

At least Bill concedes that capacitor input filters need some sort of 
soft-start circuitry.  When adequate bleeder current is drawn from a 
choke input supply, this is rarely necessary.

    There is one other consideration when using capacitor-only 
    filtering:  The initial current surge on turn-on needs to be taken 
    into account so no components are over stressed.  A delay or "step-
    start" circuit is often used, and in my own station, I have added 
    one to two different commercial amplifiers I have.  I chose the 
    component values to allow about three seconds for the capacitors to 
    charge before the full line voltage is applied to the transformer.  
    I've never had a power supply failure with either one, and I credit 
    that partly to the delay circuit. 

To use Michael Silva's comment:

    It sounds like there's more going on in a PS filter than most of us 
    realize.  It'd be interesting to scope different points on a filter 
    to see what's happening.

I agree fully.  But to play it safe, use a relatively low voltage supply 
to probe around in.  Remember, it is not only your life we are talking 
about - it is also the life of the venerable old Tektronix too!  :-)  
Probing around the power supply in a transformer operated receiver is a 
very educational experience.

Finally I would like to add that the analysis here was NOT a theoretical 
one.  It uses all sorts of engineering approximations (like neglecting 
the choke resistance, the transformer inductance, the rectifier voltage 
drops, etc.).  These are the things that should be taught in school, at 
least AFTER the rigorous analysis has been performed enough that you 
realize why the approximations are reasonable.  

[And by the way, I am not aware of any BSEE programs that use Horowitz 
and Hill's "Art of Electronics".  This book is excellent, however, as a 
guide for those that do not want to get deeply into electronics theory.  
It was written for physicists but every amateur who wants to go one step 
beyond the ARRL handbook but wishes to avoid differential equations 
should buy one.  It is much like Terman's "Radio Handbook"s - not a true 
engineering text but an excellent reference for an engineer or a 
beginner alike.  Unfortunately, it deals almost exclusively with solid-
state devices.]

Finally to correct a mistake in my previous posting, an 8877 is a 3CX1500A7.

   73, Barry  WA4VZQ  ornitz@eastman.com

{Use this address or the "Reply-To:" address that is probably stripped 
off when passing through the reflector.}

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 95 20:13:56 MST
>From: af852@rgfn.epcc.Edu (William R Colbert)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: 6AG7 circuits
Message-ID: <9511140313.AA21433@rgfn.epcc.Edu>



Conard and others - found one of the references to the 6AG7 linear-
was by Norm W6GEG, rather than W6BLZ.  Anyway, used 4 6AG7's in 
parallel (works with 6L6's also) cathode fed, grounded grid, 750 v
on the plates for 150 watts p.e.p.  I seem to remember the original
article was entitled "The little firecracker amplifier", but haven't
found the original article.  The one reference, with schematic, i
 did find was in the "New Sideband Handbook" edited by Don Stoner,
W6TNS, published by CQ, 1958/1959.  A couple of other articles that
may be of interest are:  June 1966 CQ - 6AG7/6L6 in a 40 mtr rig,
and QST March 64 - 6AG7/6146 in a 2 band 40 watt rig.
Good Luck and 73
Ray, W5XE, El Paso

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 23:10:48 -0800
>From: mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Re: regens - a couple comments
Message-ID: <199511140710.XAA12722@ix12.ix.netcom.com>

Tony, K4KYO, wrote:
>
>You reminded me that Antique Electronic Supply has a reprint of the 1937
>Hammarlund Short Wave Manual that has a number of (excuse me) really
>neat-o project receivers including a one tube (type 30) receiver, "A Boy
>Scout's Receiver" built by Scout Robert Crockett of Pelham, New York (NOT
>"NY"...  New York!).  It's a great time warp book! 
>
In a very similar vein is the "1934 Official Shortwave Radio Manual", by 
Lindsay and also at AES.  260 large pages of receivers, both homebrew and 
commercial, and a few transmitters thrown in as well.  I picked it out of 
the AES catalog because it had the most pages, and it's been great fun to 
keep by the bed (wisecracks cheerfully ignored).

73,
Mike, KK6GM


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 00:42:05 -0800
>From: Bill Turner <wrt@eskimo.com>
To: ornitz@eastman.com
Cc: Glowbugs Mailing List <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: More on choke versus capacitor input filters
Message-ID: <199511140842.AAA11767@mail.eskimo.com>

The bandwidth on this subject is getting pretty large, but a few more
comments would seem to be in order:

(I've made some snips here and there, but I'll try not to distort 
anything Barry said)

At 09:17 PM 11/13/95 -0500, Barry L. Ornitz wrote:

>This argument is simply that a Single Sideband Suppressed Carrier 
>amplifier is no different that an AM or CW transmitter as far as power 
>supply requirements go.  The current draw from the power supply will 
>vary at an audio rate exactly as if the power supply were powering a 
>class AB1, AB2, or B (or even a switching class D) stage.  In all of 
>these cases, what is needed is a relatively constant supply voltage.  A 
>properly designed choke input filter can and does meet this requirement.  

Of course it can and does.  That wasn't the original question.

>Is Bill saying that all of the older classic amateur rigs, AM and CW, 
>had power supplies that supplied constant current rather than constant 
>voltage?  They virtually all used choke input filters.  What about 
>broadcast transmitters?  How can you argue with standard practice?

Something has gotten turned around here.  I'm arguing that chokeless 
power supplies ARE standard practice, at least in the amateur field.
Check any recent ARRL handbook -- the supplies are all chokeless, just
what I'm advocating.  (Emphasis on "recent"...)

>Bill appears to be confused about the energy storage in a choke.  A 
>capacitor stores electric charge but an inductance stores a magnetic 
>field.  

Not confused at all -- I know that.

>Bill seems to be confused by the properties of an inductor when used as 
>a relay.  From his post:
>
>    Barry is correct of course about cost, size and weight, but I stand 
>    by my original comment about the rapidly varying current draw and 
>    the "inductive kick" phenomenon.  Inductive kick is familiar to 
>    anyone who has powered a relay coil from DC.  When the power is 
>    removed from the coil, the stored energy in the field attempts to 
>    maintain the existing current flow (which it can't) and the result 
>    is a sudden voltage spike across the coil.  Nearly all designers 
>    place a reversed-polarity diode across the coil to absorb the 
>    spike.  
>
>When the power is removed from the coil of a relay, its magnetic field 
>collapses generating a voltage across the coil in an attempt to maintain 
>the coil current.  In fact, the inductance does a damn good job of this 
>- to the point of generating enough voltage across switch contacts for 
>them to arc, or for the collector of a transistor to "punch through" to 
>the emitter.  Placing the reversed polarity diode across the coil does 
>provide a current path but there is NO spike generated when the diode is 
>there.  The presence of this diode actually slows down the response of 
>the relay since the coil current continues to decay after the switch is 
>opened. [In the real world, the diode has a finite turn-on time so there 
>may be a minuscule spike.  Diode capacitance and the distributed 
>capacitance of the coil usually prevent this.]  A resistive or 
>resistive-capacitive snubbing network may be used instead of the diode.
>This will turn the relay off faster since the resistance provides an 
>additional way for the energy in the magnetic field to be dissipated as 
>heat.  With a perfect diode (no forward resistance), all of the stored 
>energy in the relay's inductance will be dissipated by the coil 
>resistance.  

Again, not confused at all.  Your understanding and mine are the same.  What 
exactly made you think I was confused?

>However a power supply is quite different electrically from a switch 
>turning off a relay coil.  As the input voltage to the choke drops, due 
>to the collapsing magnetic field of the choke, the transformer and the 
>rectifier still supply current to the choke.  If the inductance is 
>greater than the critical inductance, this current will continue to flow 
>over the entire half cycle.  As the next half cycle begins, the other 
>rectifier in the full-wave center-tap circuit begins supplying current 
>to the choke which replenishes its magnetic field.  At no point in the 
>entire cycle is the current to inductance totally switched off.

No argument here.  What the choke is doing in this case is simply supplying
energy to the capacitor and/or the load to help maintain a constant voltage
source over the 1/2 cycle until the transformer/rectifiers can replenish 
them again.  My original point was that the capacitor is perfectly capable of
doing this by itself -- while the choke can and does assist, it isn't absolutely
necessary.  And they are expensive.

>Bill postulates the following scenario:
>
>    In a power supply, the same effect will happen if a choke is 
>    supplying a constant current and the load is suddenly removed (or 
>    varied, as with SSB).  The difference in a power supply is that the 
>    voltage spike is absorbed by the output filter capacitor instead of 
>    a diode.
>
>Since the voltage on the capacitor cannot change instantaneously either, 
>you have a LC circuit.  The damping will depend on the value of the 
>output resistance.  

Exactly.  And since the resistance (with SSB) is varying all over the place,
so is the damping.  Not a desirable situation, in my opinion.  If I may make
a rough analogy:  A capacitor has no "agenda" of it's own.  It simply delivers
energy depending on what the load wants.  An inductor, on the other hand has 
it's own ideas about how much current should be flowing.  Try to change it 
and the inductor will resist mightily.  Not what we want.

>
>    My point is that if the capacitor has to be there anyway, why 
>    bother with the choke?  As an illustration, imagine a power supply 
>    with a very large inductance choke and little or no output 
>    capacitance.  For SSB, it simply wouldn't work. The reverse 
>    situation -- big capacitor and little or no choke would work fine. 
>    The reason for that is that a power supply for an SSB transmitter 
>    should be a constant voltage source, not a constant current source.
>
>The capacitor must be there to provide a low reactance at the lowest 
>audio frequency.  Thus the audio currents have little effect on the 
>input impedance of the filter and the transformer sees only the average 
>current.  The reverse situation, that of a large capacitor and no choke, 
>is another extreme.  The inductance of the power transformer becomes 
>important as does the resistance of the rectifiers.  As these become 
>smaller, the peak current drawn by the supply becomes very high.  The 
>current from the transformer occurs in very short, narrow pulses.  This 
>not only creates problems with the transformer, it also creates noise 
>and transients in the power line.  The capacitor has to be there, but it 
>can be far, far smaller with the choke input filter.

The comments about current pulses, noise and transients are all true 
of course, but at amateur power levels, pretty much irrelevant.  There are
thousands of amplifiers in use every day without trashing the power grid.
It's a non-issue unless perhaps you're powering the VOA.

To sum up my point of view:  nobody is saying choke input filters won't work
or can't be made to work.  But -- the marketplace is a very efficient determiner
of what works for a given expenditure of dollars, and the consensus is
that chokes are not needed.  For a widely varying load, you need a constant 
voltage source, which capacitors provide.  A choke is a constant current source
and will function to supply energy to the capacitor and load, but 
the fundamental current-sourcing action of a choke is the opposite of 
what is needed.  A capacitor can do the job all by itself; a choke cannot.
My advice is to spend your hard-earned money elsewhere.

73, Bill  W7LZP
wrt@eskimo.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 13:10:23 +0100 (MET)
>From: Duncan Cadd <dcadd@luc.ac.be>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Cc: dcadd@luc.ac.be
Subject: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <9511141210.AA17302@alpha.luc.ac.be>

Greetings, Buggites, from a dull but dry Diepenbeek in N.E. Belgium!


> Wow, and I do mean WOW!  And these are 9 watt tubes!  Did anybody ever
> run a Novice gallon using 6AU6s? :)

I don't recall the exact tube type off the top of my head, but one of the
double digit number series, maybe 45 . . . our forebears seemed to have a
penchant for squeezing the last erg out of the available technology, I read
in the manual manufacturer's rated absolute maximum plate volts 250, then read
in a 30s vintage transmitter article, 'recommended plate volts 400-450'!!  I
also recall my Father telling me of the British LS6A triode running with its
plates a nice cherry red as the 'normal' state of affairs . . . also 1930s.
Must've been the decade, inter-war joie de vive or whatever.

73,

Duncan  ON9CHU  /  G0UTY   G-QRP 8117

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 10:36:19 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Tony Stalls (K4KYO)" <j38@clark.net>
To: William R Colbert <af852@rgfn.epcc.Edu>
Subject: Re: 6AG7s and more...
Message-ID: <Pine.SOL.3.91.951114101452.24698B-100000@clark.net>



On Mon, 13 Nov 1995, William R Colbert wrote:

> There was also early articles using the 6ag7 in a linear amp.
> I think W6BLZ (now W6XM), Ed Marriner, writing for CQ had 
> one up and running in the early 50's with an output of a couple
> hundred watts.

In the area of not-the-usual-use trivia like using 6AG7's as amplifiers,
years ago (like the mid-1950's), somebody brought their "pushed way beyond
the limit" 6L6 amplifier to a Nashville Amateur Radio Club meeting that 
was used with the chassis sitting on a bucket of water so the tubes would 
be submerged.  Memories both fade and embellish so I can't say for sure, 
but I think I recall the water boiling.  Funny!

73,
Tony
K4KYO



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 09:31:36 -0700
>From: dmedley@indirect.com (David Medley)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: FS Tubes 
Message-ID: <199511141631.JAA07590@ns1.indirect.com>

Last week I posted two boxes of tubes, one 2v battery types and one auto
radio types. I got very little response. Does anyone out there want these
things? If I put a too high price then make an offer. No reasonable offer
refused.
Regards
Dave


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 03:27:13 AES
>From: kellymed@tmxbris.mhs.oz.au (Murray Kelly)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Power supplies L-C ?
Message-ID: <631@tmxbris.mhs.oz.au>

This group is devoted to using tubes where the spec. sheets leave
off. Right? Enough of this mathematik! Volts can only go up.

A. Re the choke v. capacitor storage power supply.

It seems to me that both arguments are right. I am only a young
feller (59) and got my ticket in '77. Real recent! When I was reading
for the exams there was quite a bit about valves (tubes). None of
your multiple choice rubbish then, mind you -  7 questions, four choices 
each and 2 hrs to get it down.

At that time common knowledge had it that the problem with high
tension supplies was there wasn't enough farads available. I have a
drawer full of 8, 16, and EVEN 32 uF (!) cans. Nowadays there are
200-300uF at 450WV because of better technology. But, power supply
design now says that a rule of thumb is - 4000uF per amp. should
be available. This plainly impossible at 2500v. It would be enough to
kill an elephant. Or a string of them. (Would their tails act like fuses?)

Therefore both solutions are correct. Use as much capacitance as you
can lay your hands on, (this is high current stuff - volts and no
current is for wimps, right?) and put a little choking into it too as
an extra storage device. Nothing to give you a hernia, tho.

The other thing I recall is that thermal emission devices (valves)
had this little problem passing any decent sort of current. A
semi-conductor diode (hands up who isn't using them?) doesn't drop
much voltage and keeps relatively cool. The power supply was limited
by the tube's capacity to supply current at high volts. (power).

AS a consequence (surely) the best compromise today would be as I
said, lots of C and some L. Semiconductor diodes have a huge single
cycle surge rating usually and the argument that they are unable to
handle that is not borne out in practice. Charging up the caps at
switch-on is probaly limited by the ability to supply of the
transformer - think of it a kind of choke, perhaps?

None of the argument (sri - 'discussion') so far has helped the 
original query. How to drop the output volts of a transformer? 
What is the feeling of the group to a bucking (easy - that's a 'b')
voltage applied to the primary of the supply? One can trim the input 
voltage with a lower voltage transformer in series with the primary 
if it has sufficient current carrying capacity (ie the same as the 
primary). I must say it always seemed so wasteful to oppose an output 
with a counter-input, but the result is legitimate.

B. Another question raised was the usefulness of a pot to control the
feedback in a regen rig. I notice the MFJ solidstate (gasp) regen
receiver uses pots to regulate the feedback and allegedly does it
most successfully. Should work anywhere.

C. I have this little pile of 6BM8 s and have long wanted to use them
for a QRP osc/trx. Anyone see why they won't fly? Ideally I would
like to try a ceramic resonator as the frequency determining device -
in the triode, but that's just an extra.

D. Finally (whew!) has anyone had experience with air-cored toroids? I
have made some big ones (2.5in) but would like to get some glass or
plain ceramic formers to experiment with. I have been trying multiple
windings in the opposite direction, but same sense, to get some
really hi 'Q' coils and would like to try it out on smaller stuff.
I have never seen any source of such a thing mentioned.

Thanks, Murray Kelly. vk4aok.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 15:45:58 -0600 (CST)
>From: Bob Roehrig <broehrig@admin.aurora.edu>
To: Murray Kelly <kellymed@tmxbris.mhs.oz.au>
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: Power supplies L-C ?
Message-ID: <Pine.ULT.3.91.951114154140.19010A-100000@admin.aurora.edu>

On Tue, 14 Nov 1995, Murray Kelly wrote:

> 
> None of the argument (sri - 'discussion') so far has helped the 
> original query. How to drop the output volts of a transformer? 
> What is the feeling of the group to a bucking (easy - that's a 'b')
> voltage applied to the primary of the supply? One can trim the input 
> voltage with a lower voltage transformer in series with the primary 
> if it has sufficient current carrying capacity (ie the same as the 
> primary). I must say it always seemed so wasteful to oppose an output 
> with a counter-input, but the result is legitimate.
> 

Murray brings up a good point. I mentioned earlier in another post that
I had obtained a WW2 vintage Japanese clone of an HRO. Its power supply
was, of course, intended to run from 100 VAC. The first thing that came
to mind was a bucking transformer arrangement. I used a 24V job to oppose
the primary of the main transformer - worked like a charm. Nice thing
about this method is little heat generated as there would be using
resistive dropping. Also the output is constant regardless of the load.
73 de BOB, K9EUI


------------------------------

End of GLOWBUGS Digest 18
*************************




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       GLOWBUGS Digest 19

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) 3A5 Regen RX....Lives!
 by k7yha@ix.netcom.com (Richard H. Arland )
  2) Re: Power supplies L-C ?
 by Bill Turner <wrt@eskimo.com>
  3) This is getting serious...
 by mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
  4) Re: This is getting serious...
 by johnmb <johnmb@nando.net>
  5) Fleming valve
 by Duncan Cadd <dcadd@luc.ac.be>
  6) "WET" 6L6
 by BOB.LIESENFELD@hamlink.mn.org (BOB LIESENFELD)
  7) RE: "WET" 6L6                                                    
 by "ALLIN1.US054298" <usmmmhwc@ibmmail.com>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 16:34:17 -0800
>From: k7yha@ix.netcom.com (Richard H. Arland )
To: k7yha@ix.netcom.com
Subject: 3A5 Regen RX....Lives!
Message-ID: <199511150034.QAA04355@ix6.ix.netcom.com>

HI Gang:

Been having troubles posting to this list and boatanchors. So here it 
goes...again.

Last night I completed the 3A5 RX in the Sept issue of CQ mag (1995). 
It works, although not well. Very little volume, tuning is extremely 
critical at the high (7.0 MHz) end of the dial. Coverage is from 3.4 to 
7.4 MHz. 

Using a 65 ft end fed wire I can get the big-time SW broadcasters, but 
no ham QSOs. I'm thinking about removing about 10 turns from the main 
coil which sould drop 7 MHz down to the low end of the capacitor tuning 
range (yielding better bandspead) and also allow me to receive 30 
meters. (I never did like 80 mtrs.)

Any thoughts?

73 rich 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 20:57:11 -0800
>From: Bill Turner <wrt@eskimo.com>
To: kellymed@tmxbris.mhs.oz.au,
Subject: Re: Power supplies L-C ?
Message-ID: <199511150457.UAA27085@mail.eskimo.com>

At 11:31 AM 11/14/95 -0600, Murray Kelly wrote:
-snip-
>At that time common knowledge had it that the problem with high
>tension supplies was there wasn't enough farads available. I have a
>drawer full of 8, 16, and EVEN 32 uF (!) cans. Nowadays there are
>200-300uF at 450WV because of better technology. But, power supply
>design now says that a rule of thumb is - 4000uF per amp. should
>be available. This plainly impossible at 2500v. It would be enough to
>kill an elephant. 
-snip-
--------------------------------------------------------------------
May I offer a suggestion?  Instead of "rule of thumb", there is an easy way
to calculate how much capacitance is needed for a given power supply
application.  I came across this years ago in a consumer electronics
magazine of all places, and I've never seen it anywhere else.  It's based on
the definition of a farad, slightly rewritten:

When supplied with a constant current of one ampere for one second, a one
farad capacitor will charge up to a voltage of one volt.

The same thing is true for discharging too, and here is how you use it.  If
you have a power supply using a full wave rectifier feeding directly into a
capacitor (no choke), the filter capacitor is fully recharged 120 times per
second, or looking at another way, every 8.333 milliseconds.  If, for
example, it were a one farad capacitor supplying a current of one ampere,
the voltage would only drop for 8.333 milliseconds before it was recharged
again.  How far would it drop?  Lets make an assumption that the current is
constant at one ampere.  In one full second it would drop one full volt from
where it started at, but in 8.333 milliseconds, it will only drop 8.333
millivolts.  Since it is recharged as soon as it has dropped to that point,
you would see a ripple of -- you guessed it -- 8.333 millivolts.

Hardly any of us use one farad capacitors or exactly one ampere loads, of
course, so in order to scale this for other variables, just use this formula:

C = (1000*I)/(F*V)

where

C = required capacitance in microfarads
I = load current in milliamps
F = ripple frequency in Hz
V = the desired ripple voltage

For example, if you're building a legal-limit amplifier with a plate supply
of 3000 volts, a full wave rectifier (120 Hz) and a current drain of 800 ma,
and you want no more than 50 volts of ripple, you will need:

(1000*800)/120*50 = 133.3 microfarads.

If more ripple is acceptable, lets say 120 volts.... the required
capacitance is now 55.5 microfarads.  Use a half wave rectifier instead (60
Hz) and the capacitance required is doubled, and so on.

There are two small caveats with this.  One, electrolytic capacitors are
notorious for being way off their marked capacity, so take that into
account, and two, the formula assumes that the capacitor is instantaneously
recharged and that the current drain is perfectly constant.  In the real
world neither one will be true, but you will be pleasantly surprised how
close you will come to the correct value required.  

And of course with a little rearranging of the formula, you can determine
the amount of ripple you'll get from given values of capacitance, load and
frequency.  

73, Bill  W7LZP
wrt@eskimo.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 23:42:48 -0800
>From: mjsilva@ix.netcom.com (michael silva)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: This is getting serious...
Message-ID: <199511150742.XAA09093@ix3.ix.netcom.com>

I dropped by a surplus place after driving out to visit my sister, 
picked up five dollars worth of miscellany, and then I ran across...a 
variable DC supply, adjustable voltage ranges of 250/500/1000v, 
adjustable current ranges of 250/500/1000mA.  It's BIG!  Made by 
Hipotronics (anybody ever heard of 'em?).  While I stood there 
scratching my head the owner started dropping the price, and at some 
point I said "uncle!" and handed him a credit card!  I really don't 
need this monster (but I'm glad I've got it!).  He said he had it 
running 3 months ago, and it's got a 90 day warranty, but tomorrow I'm 
going to open it up, poke and sniff around, and only then *slowly* 
power it up (it's got a built-in variac).

Finally I can make my own cherry-red plates!  Like I said, this is 
getting serious.

73,
Mike, KK6GM


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 06:55:32 -0500 (EST)
>From: johnmb <johnmb@nando.net>
To: michael silva <mjsilva@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <glowbugs@theporch.com>
Subject: Re: This is getting serious...
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.951115065406.22982A-100000@parsifal.nando.net>

Hipotronics is/was a manufacturer of HiPot testing equipment.
Im not sure if they are still in the biz.

Welcome to the addiction! :-)
/john

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 13:15:58 +0100 (MET)
>From: Duncan Cadd <dcadd@luc.ac.be>
To: boatanchors@theporch.com
Cc: dcadd@luc.ac.be, glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: Fleming valve
Message-ID: <9511151215.AA20062@alpha.luc.ac.be>

Greetings, from a changeable Diepenbeek in N.E. Belgium!


The Science Museum in London has a large Web page with a small (but nice)
illustration of one of Fleming's original experimental tubes dating from 1889.
The original is on display in one of the galleries (Nick England take note!)

http://www.nmsi.ac.uk/galleries/objects/flemmv2.htm

will get you the pretty picture.
73,

Duncan  ON9CHU  /  G0UTY   G-QRP 8117

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 08:27:05 -0100
>From: BOB.LIESENFELD@hamlink.mn.org (BOB LIESENFELD)
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: "WET" 6L6
Message-ID: <816433225.AA04238@hamlink.mn.org>

Hi gang,
 I had to laugh when I saw the post about the 6L6 TX set upon a bucket 
'o water with the tubes down in the drink. I too have seen this with 
a single bulb and a glass of water. While the water did not boil, it 
was *hot*. You had to stir it up once in a while to do much good.
 
  72  Bob   WB0POQ
 
   Technology is OUT of control....
            

---NoSnail v1.17
*******************************************************************
HAM>link< RBBS - Serving the Amateur Radio Community Since 1983

- 612/HAM-0000 v.34                 Ham Radio Spoken Here!!
- 612/HAM-1010 v.32b           Reply to sender @ hamlink.mn.org
********************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 12:33:54 EST
>From: "ALLIN1.US054298" <usmmmhwc@ibmmail.com>
To: glowbugs@theporch.com
Subject: RE: "WET" 6L6                                                    
Message-ID: <199511151736.LAA09594@uro.theporch.com>

                                                                               
Won't the grid leak out??                                                      

------------------------------

End of GLOWBUGS Digest 19
*************************
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--simple boundary--

