From glowbugs@theporch.com Mon Jan 8 03:17:34 1996 Return-Path: glowbugs@theporch.com Received: from uro (localhost.theporch.com [127.0.0.1]) by uro.theporch.com (8.7.3/AUX-3.1.1) with SMTP id DAA07517; Mon, 8 Jan 1996 03:03:11 -0600 (CST) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 03:03:11 -0600 (CST) Message-Id: <199601080903.DAA07517@uro.theporch.com> Errors-To: ws4s@midtenn.net Reply-To: glowbugs@theporch.com Originator: glowbugs@theporch.com Sender: glowbugs@theporch.com Precedence: bulk From: glowbugs@theporch.com To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: GLOWBUGS digest 70 X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas X-Comment: Please send list server requests to listproc@theporch.com Status: O GLOWBUGS Digest 70 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) cutting plexiglass by ralph.hartwell@emachine.com (Ralph Hartwell) 2) Radiotron Designer's Handbook WTD by "James P. Rybak" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 21:17:00 GMT From: ralph.hartwell@emachine.com (Ralph Hartwell) To: glowbugs@theporch.com Subject: cutting plexiglass Message-ID: <9601071712256314@emachine.com> SE>I'm building the 6146 single tube transmitter from Aug. 55 QST. My front SE>panel is going to be smoked plexiglass so I can see the GLOW. I've tried SE>to cut this material before and always had trouble with it welding itself SE>back together behind my cut. What kind of blade should I use for a SE>straight cut and for making holes? Steve, When you cut the plastic stock, it will weld itself back together if the saw blade does not have sufficient clearance between the blade and the sides of the cut. Another problem which can cause this is having too fine a blade pitch (too many teeth per inch of blade.) In general, you want 2 or 3 teeth to be in contact with the plastic at all times. Many more teeth than that, and the shavings cannot get out of the way of the blade. They will melt and get caught on the blade and fuse back to the plastic stock. Running the blade too fast will also melt the plastic. If you are using a sabre saw or a jigsaw, don't let the blade get very warm or the plastic will quickly start to stick. Use very light cutting pressure and don't force the plastic into the blade. If the shavings are show any appearance of melting or sticking together (other than from static electricity) either the blade is dull, or you have too many teeth per inch on the blade, or you are forcing the cut. The edges of the cut should be clean and sharp edged, showing no signs of melting. Remember that thicker pieces will have to be cut slower because you have much more material to remove than with thin stock. Each tooth can only remove so much material per pass. Really thick parts may need a skip tooth blade to allow sufficient clearance for the waste to escape from the cutting edge of the blade. Ralph W5JGV --- þ QMPro 1.53 þ My apartment allows pets. I have a pony. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 17:34:00 -0700 (MST) From: "James P. Rybak" To: Glowbugs Subject: Radiotron Designer's Handbook WTD Message-ID: Does anyone have a Radiotron Designer's Handbook for sale? Please state edition, condition, and price. Jim Rybak W0KSD ------------------------------ End of GLOWBUGS Digest 70 *************************